The trick is to think backward. Normally you paint shadows in the recesses of a model and then highlights on the edges emphasising how the external light plays on the shape. Fire has a light of its own and so the roles are reversed and the deeper you go, the lighter it will be. »

Many players magnetise their models to have an option to change their weapons. But even if you're a hobbyist keeping faithful to one model configuration, you may benefit from magnetising some parts »

Some models are notoriously difficult to keep clean. They have difficult to reach areas and vacuum cleaners and their brushes are either to weak to get the dust off or too strong and can damage the model. »

After many years here comes a new card terrain set for Warhammer 40k Cityfight/Sector Imperialis setting. It's extremely wobbly but can be fixed and I show you how. »

Shading and highlighting white is quite straightforward with the caveat that there are murderous pitfalls along the way »

Today's picture gallery celebrates one of Games Workshop's gems lost in time: the Epic (6mm scale) series of games. Thanks in large part to lower cost of introducing new models they expanded enormously the fluff of Warhammer 40k. »

Black is one of the challenging colours as how you add darker shades to something that is technically as dark as things go? Fortunately real world objects are not perfect quantum black bodies and are actually grey so the trick is to find a shade of grey that will make our brains think its black. For me it's Vallejo 306 Dark Rubber from the Panzer Aces line. »